Barahona Road Trip Tour

I got an email from John that he wanted to visit Barahona after he read my trip report (Barahona trip). I was happy to return and share my discoveries as I had such a good time there the first time I went. The only thing I wasn’t sure about was that he and his daughter Kelsey wanted to rent a car and drive there. I am not really good on the roads here as I never had the guts to drive in this country but this is what they wanted so I went along for the ride as their guide. First I did tell them that I did not know the roads as I always use public transportation but they were up for the adventure and what an adventure it turned out to be for us all.

They were staying their first night in Boca Chica and I took a taxi early Saturday morning to meet up with them. We got along great and they were up for the adventure so we were off in the rental car after a good breakfast.

We did fine driving and enjoying the view along the Malecon. The highway to Barahona was for the most part smooth. We only had a few close calls on the drive there. One when someone stopped in front of us for a conversation in the middle of the street, as is the norm here in DR, and dodging a few large holes in the street.

We stopped at a Colmado for a beer mid trip. John was amazed at how much rice a man had on his plate for his mid day meal. I explained that this was the normal serving here. I was explaining the culture and things along the way. As my usual talking non stop because I love sharing stuff about this country.

We got into Barahona and stopped at a restaurant. I called my friend Ruddi and he came by and said hello to us. Then we drove down the coast to San Rafael. We had no real destination in mind. The only thing that was sure is that we had to get some raw larimar for John to take home with him. Other than that the day was clear.

The road was winding and the scenery was beautiful. As we drove up to the San Rafael beach/ river area the scene was breathtaking. The bay was bright turquoise and the waves were white. We stopped to take it all in. Then we drove down the hill to where the river enters the sea and took a few pictures. We stopped at a roadside place where a lady was selling larimar and they bought their stash or the gem only found on our island. Then we decided we best start looking for a hotel to stay the night.

The Bay and River at San Rafael (click images to enlarge)

On our way back to Barahona we were stopped at one of the many police check points. The guys had their big guns and made us open the trunk for them to have a look see. There was nothing for them to find so we went on our merry way on our quest for a hotel.

We stopped at so many places. All were full. I never left the city on a holiday. Now I know why. Without a reservation on holiday weekends it is almost impossible to find a place to rest the weary head. We stopped at a friend’s hotel and they called around for us to try and find a place vacant. A guy from the hotel took us to one place that had a vacancy but the music was so loud there we would have never slept so we decided to head back toward the capital and maybe find a place in Azua. This is when the real adventure began.

We followed a sigh that said Santo Domingo. The road did not look familiar but we kept going as I thought maybe it was a new highway. There were deep ditches on either side of the road that made me a bit nervous. It was dark by this time and driving at night in the country is not easy here. We almost went off the road once when they sugar train tracks were not marked. We just barely dodged a few car-eating potholes. We got onto some dirt road where people were all staring at us probably wondering what a car with 3 Gringos was doing when the road lead to nowhere. We had to turn around and go past the staring humans again as the road got so bad we knew we were a bit lost. All the time we were laughing and enjoying the situation. But as the night progressed we all got a bit more silent. I could not figure out why we had not come to the town of Azua yet.

Finally we saw someone to ask where the heck we were, after at least a 1-½ hour drive in the dark. He said we were on the wrong road and the only way to get to Santo Domingo we had to go back to Barahona. We stopped to get gas and asked a man there where we could find a hotel. He said his wife’s cousin had a hotel, the only hotel in the entire area. He said it was about 5 minutes away and we could follow him to get there. It was more like 20 minutes away but we followed him. What choice did we have at that hour of the night (it was maybe around 10PM?

We got to the hotel. Hotel Restaurant Deysi Hermanos (809-527-3951/ 3679). This is the only hotel in the entire area. It was in the town of Neiba. Not very far from Lago Enriquillo. We really went the wrong direction. Thank goodness they had rooms! YEA! We had a place to lay our heads and relax a bit. The guy took me to get some water and ice as there wasn’t anyplace within walking distance at night to get this stuff. We gave him a few hundred pesos for his help and retired to our rooms for the night.

View from the Deysi Hermenos Hotel Balcony(click images to enlarge)

Spider webs - Dead baby doll in broken building (click images to enlarge)

In the morning we decided we would just head back to the capital as we didn’t know if we would have more get lose times. Remember, I told them ahead of time that I did not know the roads. They were not angry with me instead they were enjoying the adventure. On the trip back we passed a lot of sugar cane fields and workers. Things we passed the night before but never saw. The sugar cane train went slowly past. We had a few close calls on the road but that’s normal here. We stopped for a horse in the street and waited for him to get off the road to protect him form the crazy drivers speeding past without paying attention to it.

Finally we got back to Barahona to start again for Santo Domingo. We turned around and followed the sign and ended up on the same road to Neiba! It was like we were in the Twilight Zone or in an episode of Children of the Corn (or maybe Children of the Sugar Cane) where you can never leave the town. There was a police checkpoint so we decided to ask for help there. I told the police our story and he had a great solution for us. We were in luck. A sergeant there needed to get to Santo Domingo and instead of him taking the bus he could ride with us and show us the way. What a deal, getting directions and a police escort. So he got in the back seat with Kelsey and we were on our way back.

The policeman was enamored with Kelsey, as were most of the Dominican men we encountered. He kept trying to talk to her but she knew no Spanish. She said his gun was sticking out of his pocket and one time it fell out on the seat. He saw that it came out when she was staring at it and put it back in his pocket.

Other than this the trip back was uneventful. We made one liquid refreshment stop. I would have never found the way back. There are no road signs worth speaking of. There might be one sign then the next turn there is none. So normally, without a sign, one would assume that you are to keep going straight. I learned not to assume anything here. Every fork and Y in the road you need to stop and ask if that is the way or you will end up in no mans land like we did. But the best way to travel in DR is with a PMA (Positive Mental Attitude). Take your time and enjoy the adventure. Laugh at your screw-ups and mark it up as one memorable vacation.

Well, we made it back to Colonial Zone. Then they checked into their hotel and we went on a little walking tour of the Zone. John did no have time to deliver the supplies he brought for the orphanage so he left them with me to deliver later. We walked a few hours in the Colonial Zone but we were all beat from the road trip so we returned to the hotel. We sat on the patio and recalled our adventure over a few cold Presidente beers then said our goodbyes.

John and Kelsey made it to return the car and to the airport with no problems. They made it back to their home with no problems. They also left with some great memories of a unique and incredible adventure in Dominican Republic. I had a great time showing them around and made some new friends in the process.

Trip To Barahona - A 4 Day Adventure

Day 1
Saturday 23rd
I decided to take a little trip to a place I had never visited before. Got out the map, sent a few emails and made the decision. I chose Baharona in the Southwest part of Dominican Republic.

I made the bus reservation on line with Caribe Tours. This was great as I only had to get to the station a half hour early and was sure to get on the bus I wanted. I took the 6:15AM bus cause I wanted to spend the entire day there. Didn’t want to waste a minute of my trip.

The ride was good. In Azua a man sat next to me and we talked a bit. The land changes after Azua. It is much dryer there, almost desert like and there are even cactus dotting the land. It took a little over 3 hours to get to Baharona.

When I got off the bus all the motoconcho guys were waiting there for their fares. They sit on their motorcycles waiting for someone to take a ride. It usually costs about 20 to 25 pesos in the local area for a ride. I wanted to walk as the hotel I booked was only a few blocks from the station but I wasn’t sure which direction to go. A nice guy said he would take me there for free. Can't beat that price so I hopped (not really hop because I need to get on slowly and lift my leg onto the foot peg, get my butt situated just right then give the driver orders to go slow- it’s a bit of an ordeal really) on the back of the bike with my suitcase on the front and my little bag between us. Then we rode off to the hotel.

Ruddy (the motor guy) and I were talking on the short ride to the Hotel Loro Tuerto. He was a really nice guy so I invited him for a beer. The hotel was really nice. The little restaurant was playing reggae music and was decorated sort of tribal like. Sitting in the restaurant with the owner of the place was the man I was sitting with on the bus, small world. I signed in with my name, cedula, and phone, threw my stuff in the room (which was very comfortable and clean), and Ruddy and I were off to have a beer and to see the town.
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We started talking. I was telling him what I wanted to see and do while I was there. Ruddy said he could take me to the beaches and rivers for free. Couldn’t beat that deal. I pay for the gas, the food and drinks and have a free guide. We went back to the hotel and I changed my clothes to beach ware. We stopped at a little market and got some rum, 7up and ice and we were off.

Ruddy did follow my orders about driving slow for the most part. I did have to remind him a few times by pinching him in his stomach like I warned him Id do if I got nervous. He stopped to get gas first. The gas station was packed full of motorcycle riders and not one car. Then we rode off down the Malecon out of the city.

I saw some roadside places; most were just people’s homes where they set up a grill to cook with some tables. We chose a place and got some fried fish and cooked bananas called guinea. This area is known for their seafood. The place had some ducks, chickens, dogs and cats running around. Ruddy went to the tree and picked us fresh lemons (called limon here) for the fish and some for the rum. The meal for the both of us was only $150 pesos. Great deal.
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Then we got back on the bike and headed out to the country. We passed some beach areas and slowed down to check out a few. We finally stopped at Playa Quemaito, about a 20 to 30 minute ride. It’s a really long beach with no sand. Most of the beaches in the area are just small, smooth rocks. We swam a bit and collected some interesting rocks, beach glass and even a little larimar. Then we got back on the bike and rode about 10 minutes to the river.
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I like the rivers more than the beaches. It is more refreshing swimming in the river than the sea. The river was crystal clear and the temp was just right. They say it is really cold but to me it was perfect. I found a little flat rock along side the little damn someone made to form the swimming hole. This rock fit my butt perfectly so I just sat there in the cool water, drank my rum and 7up my butt and I were very content. Ruddy was also enjoying his day of play.

We left the river and rode into the little campo of Quimatos. He said his family was from there but it seemed that everyone we ran into was family. He was related to half the people there. We stopped at a little place and danced a bit. Stopped and talked to a shirtless man along the road. He had a large machete on his side and he was covered in blue tinted mud. It was Ruddys brother coming home from working in the larimar mines.

We got back to Barahona just as it was getting dark. We went to the central park area and got some tasty barbecue chicken and yucca with lots of onions. Then we had a beer at a little Colmado and I went back to the hotel to sleep in my room with air conditioning. For me air is a really special treat. Ruddy went home with the promise he would be back in the morning to take me around again because I forgot to bring my camera with me so we had to do it all again.

It was a great day.

Day 2
Sunday 25th
Got up and got ready to head to the beach. This time I remembered my camera. Ruddy came and we had some coffee to start the day off right. Then we went and got our liquid supplies. Rum, 7up and ice. This time it cost about 40 pesos more probably because the Gringa bought instead of the Dominican. Then we went to the Colmado and got pan de auga (bread), some ham and cheese and made sandwiches for the beach. I have to be a bit thrifty. Then we got on the motorbike and headed to Playa Quemaito.

When we got to the beach we picked out our spot and rented a few chairs and a table. Then I had to have a beer before the rum. Beer is always first. I got a little sun on my white legs. While we were sitting and enjoying people kept trying to drive onto the beach with their vehicles. The beach is all little pebbles and very deep. The 4-wheel trucks did fine but the others kept getting stuck. Once car tried and got stuck bad. Ruddy went to help and with 4 men pushing and lifting the car they finally got it out. The family with the car came and sat near us and we were talking. Ruddy told them we were heading to the river and if they wanted to come along they were welcome.
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So we all headed for the rio, them in their car following us on the moto. The road down to the river is a bit rough but they made it most of the way and had to walk the rest. The river was packed this day with all sorts of humans. Some people were cooking in big kettles on fires. Smelt really good whatever it was. There was a group of men pushing a utility van back and forth trying to get it to jump-start. It was funny to watch.
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Then we rode to the barrio, I think it was the town of Quemaito but can’t be sure. It seemed that everyone we passed was some type of family member of Ruddys. Even when we went to the pool hall he was related to people there as well.
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While he was playing I took a little walk to see what I could see. I walked down near to the sea. There was a group of ducks hanging out with their babies along with the chickens. Then I walked up to the street to talk to a lady selling empanadas. She was 94 years old and I asked if I could take her picture. She was smiling and enjoying having her picture taken. I told her I wanted her picture because her face had so much history and it was beautiful. She was smiling the entire time.
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Then we headed to the disco with some of Ruddys friends. I danced a little and flirted with his friends’ 3 year old son. Really the niño was flirting with me. We had a few beers and then headed back toward Barahona. But first Ruddy had to stop and see his brother that worked in the larimar mine.
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He wasn’t there so we had to wait a while. It was getting darker and the place didn’t have any lights.I didn’t want to ride the motor in the dark so finally I had to remind Ruddy. He got his brother to ride me back to the city in his truck and Ruddy led the way on his motor. When we stopped for me to get on the motor it started making noises. Something broke and he had to take it somewhere to leave it to be repaired. He came back and we walked to the central park to get something to eat. Ruddy was a bit worried about his bike so we didn’t hang out long.

We got another motor, 3 of us on the same bike, and he took me back to the hotel. Ruddy went to see what he could do to get the bike running. I was beat and got a sandwich to take to the room to eat. It was another good day for me.

Day 3
Monday 25th
My son Billy Jay died 7 years ago today. This is one of the reasons I took the trip. I like to get away and near water on this day.

Ruddy didn’t show up at the hotel and I couldn’t get in touch with him on his phone so I decided to take a walk and check out the area and head down to the sea side to relax. I went and got some money to pay the hotel bill then walked toward the sea.

In front of a park on the Malecon I met a tour guide, Billy. I told him I didn’t want a guide and what my business was and he decided to hang out with me for a while. We walked around and I checked out a few hotels along the way and got their info.(click to enlarge)

Then we got to the sea. There weren’t many people there which is what I wanted. It was really quiet. Billy and I walked to the Larimar Hotel. There were no guests there and the watchmen and manager were sitting on the beach. We sat down and talked a while. They gave me some fish and rice to eat for free. Then this fog started rolling in. At first I thought it was the salt air fogging my glasses. It was a strange fog that came from nowhere in the middle of the afternoon. It lasted about a half hour then was gone. It was sort of eerie.

I told Billy I wanted to go to the hotel and rest a bit but we could have a beer first. Well, we started drinking, talking, laughing, meeting other people and I never made it to rest in the hotel. A couple men invited Billy and I to go to another place so we got in their car and went to the Malecon. We danced a bit and talked a lot. I even showed them my stupid magic tricks and told them my joke I made up (How many Dominicans does it take to change a light bulb? 8. 1 to do the work. 2 to hold the ladder. 4 to observe and comment on the work and the most important…1 to go to the Colmado for the beer).

Then dropped Billy and I off at the hotel and Billy walked home. I got some spaghetti and went to the room. It was another good day.

Day 4
Tuesday 26th
My last day in Baharona. I got up and packed then went for my coffee. Billy was there waiting for me then Ruddy showed up. Ruddy said he was looking for me all day yesterday. He lost his cell phone and forgot that he had my business cad with my number on it.

Billy went and got me my ticket for the bus then Ruddy and I went to get something to eat and to see a little more of the town. We got a sandwich then went to the sea. The beach in the city is called Cabo. We went there and he told me how the sugar boats come to take the sugar and molasses. We took some pictures of the old train.
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Then Ruddy took me to the hotel to get my luggage. He took me to the bus and I had to say good-bye to him and Baharona. The trip back to Santo Domingo was uneventful and the only thing bad was the bus didn’t have air conditioning. I opened the window and enjoyed the breeze, wrote in my journal my story and relaxed for the 3 1/2-hour ride back to the city.

It was a good road trip.