Trip To Barahona - A 4 Day Adventure

Day 1
Saturday 23rd
I decided to take a little trip to a place I had never visited before. Got out the map, sent a few emails and made the decision. I chose Baharona in the Southwest part of Dominican Republic.

I made the bus reservation on line with Caribe Tours. This was great as I only had to get to the station a half hour early and was sure to get on the bus I wanted. I took the 6:15AM bus cause I wanted to spend the entire day there. Didn’t want to waste a minute of my trip.

The ride was good. In Azua a man sat next to me and we talked a bit. The land changes after Azua. It is much dryer there, almost desert like and there are even cactus dotting the land. It took a little over 3 hours to get to Baharona.

When I got off the bus all the motoconcho guys were waiting there for their fares. They sit on their motorcycles waiting for someone to take a ride. It usually costs about 20 to 25 pesos in the local area for a ride. I wanted to walk as the hotel I booked was only a few blocks from the station but I wasn’t sure which direction to go. A nice guy said he would take me there for free. Can't beat that price so I hopped (not really hop because I need to get on slowly and lift my leg onto the foot peg, get my butt situated just right then give the driver orders to go slow- it’s a bit of an ordeal really) on the back of the bike with my suitcase on the front and my little bag between us. Then we rode off to the hotel.

Ruddy (the motor guy) and I were talking on the short ride to the Hotel Loro Tuerto. He was a really nice guy so I invited him for a beer. The hotel was really nice. The little restaurant was playing reggae music and was decorated sort of tribal like. Sitting in the restaurant with the owner of the place was the man I was sitting with on the bus, small world. I signed in with my name, cedula, and phone, threw my stuff in the room (which was very comfortable and clean), and Ruddy and I were off to have a beer and to see the town.
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We started talking. I was telling him what I wanted to see and do while I was there. Ruddy said he could take me to the beaches and rivers for free. Couldn’t beat that deal. I pay for the gas, the food and drinks and have a free guide. We went back to the hotel and I changed my clothes to beach ware. We stopped at a little market and got some rum, 7up and ice and we were off.

Ruddy did follow my orders about driving slow for the most part. I did have to remind him a few times by pinching him in his stomach like I warned him Id do if I got nervous. He stopped to get gas first. The gas station was packed full of motorcycle riders and not one car. Then we rode off down the Malecon out of the city.

I saw some roadside places; most were just people’s homes where they set up a grill to cook with some tables. We chose a place and got some fried fish and cooked bananas called guinea. This area is known for their seafood. The place had some ducks, chickens, dogs and cats running around. Ruddy went to the tree and picked us fresh lemons (called limon here) for the fish and some for the rum. The meal for the both of us was only $150 pesos. Great deal.
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Then we got back on the bike and headed out to the country. We passed some beach areas and slowed down to check out a few. We finally stopped at Playa Quemaito, about a 20 to 30 minute ride. It’s a really long beach with no sand. Most of the beaches in the area are just small, smooth rocks. We swam a bit and collected some interesting rocks, beach glass and even a little larimar. Then we got back on the bike and rode about 10 minutes to the river.
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I like the rivers more than the beaches. It is more refreshing swimming in the river than the sea. The river was crystal clear and the temp was just right. They say it is really cold but to me it was perfect. I found a little flat rock along side the little damn someone made to form the swimming hole. This rock fit my butt perfectly so I just sat there in the cool water, drank my rum and 7up my butt and I were very content. Ruddy was also enjoying his day of play.

We left the river and rode into the little campo of Quimatos. He said his family was from there but it seemed that everyone we ran into was family. He was related to half the people there. We stopped at a little place and danced a bit. Stopped and talked to a shirtless man along the road. He had a large machete on his side and he was covered in blue tinted mud. It was Ruddys brother coming home from working in the larimar mines.

We got back to Barahona just as it was getting dark. We went to the central park area and got some tasty barbecue chicken and yucca with lots of onions. Then we had a beer at a little Colmado and I went back to the hotel to sleep in my room with air conditioning. For me air is a really special treat. Ruddy went home with the promise he would be back in the morning to take me around again because I forgot to bring my camera with me so we had to do it all again.

It was a great day.

Day 2
Sunday 25th
Got up and got ready to head to the beach. This time I remembered my camera. Ruddy came and we had some coffee to start the day off right. Then we went and got our liquid supplies. Rum, 7up and ice. This time it cost about 40 pesos more probably because the Gringa bought instead of the Dominican. Then we went to the Colmado and got pan de auga (bread), some ham and cheese and made sandwiches for the beach. I have to be a bit thrifty. Then we got on the motorbike and headed to Playa Quemaito.

When we got to the beach we picked out our spot and rented a few chairs and a table. Then I had to have a beer before the rum. Beer is always first. I got a little sun on my white legs. While we were sitting and enjoying people kept trying to drive onto the beach with their vehicles. The beach is all little pebbles and very deep. The 4-wheel trucks did fine but the others kept getting stuck. Once car tried and got stuck bad. Ruddy went to help and with 4 men pushing and lifting the car they finally got it out. The family with the car came and sat near us and we were talking. Ruddy told them we were heading to the river and if they wanted to come along they were welcome.
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So we all headed for the rio, them in their car following us on the moto. The road down to the river is a bit rough but they made it most of the way and had to walk the rest. The river was packed this day with all sorts of humans. Some people were cooking in big kettles on fires. Smelt really good whatever it was. There was a group of men pushing a utility van back and forth trying to get it to jump-start. It was funny to watch.
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Then we rode to the barrio, I think it was the town of Quemaito but can’t be sure. It seemed that everyone we passed was some type of family member of Ruddys. Even when we went to the pool hall he was related to people there as well.
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While he was playing I took a little walk to see what I could see. I walked down near to the sea. There was a group of ducks hanging out with their babies along with the chickens. Then I walked up to the street to talk to a lady selling empanadas. She was 94 years old and I asked if I could take her picture. She was smiling and enjoying having her picture taken. I told her I wanted her picture because her face had so much history and it was beautiful. She was smiling the entire time.
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Then we headed to the disco with some of Ruddys friends. I danced a little and flirted with his friends’ 3 year old son. Really the niño was flirting with me. We had a few beers and then headed back toward Barahona. But first Ruddy had to stop and see his brother that worked in the larimar mine.
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He wasn’t there so we had to wait a while. It was getting darker and the place didn’t have any lights.I didn’t want to ride the motor in the dark so finally I had to remind Ruddy. He got his brother to ride me back to the city in his truck and Ruddy led the way on his motor. When we stopped for me to get on the motor it started making noises. Something broke and he had to take it somewhere to leave it to be repaired. He came back and we walked to the central park to get something to eat. Ruddy was a bit worried about his bike so we didn’t hang out long.

We got another motor, 3 of us on the same bike, and he took me back to the hotel. Ruddy went to see what he could do to get the bike running. I was beat and got a sandwich to take to the room to eat. It was another good day for me.

Day 3
Monday 25th
My son Billy Jay died 7 years ago today. This is one of the reasons I took the trip. I like to get away and near water on this day.

Ruddy didn’t show up at the hotel and I couldn’t get in touch with him on his phone so I decided to take a walk and check out the area and head down to the sea side to relax. I went and got some money to pay the hotel bill then walked toward the sea.

In front of a park on the Malecon I met a tour guide, Billy. I told him I didn’t want a guide and what my business was and he decided to hang out with me for a while. We walked around and I checked out a few hotels along the way and got their info.(click to enlarge)

Then we got to the sea. There weren’t many people there which is what I wanted. It was really quiet. Billy and I walked to the Larimar Hotel. There were no guests there and the watchmen and manager were sitting on the beach. We sat down and talked a while. They gave me some fish and rice to eat for free. Then this fog started rolling in. At first I thought it was the salt air fogging my glasses. It was a strange fog that came from nowhere in the middle of the afternoon. It lasted about a half hour then was gone. It was sort of eerie.

I told Billy I wanted to go to the hotel and rest a bit but we could have a beer first. Well, we started drinking, talking, laughing, meeting other people and I never made it to rest in the hotel. A couple men invited Billy and I to go to another place so we got in their car and went to the Malecon. We danced a bit and talked a lot. I even showed them my stupid magic tricks and told them my joke I made up (How many Dominicans does it take to change a light bulb? 8. 1 to do the work. 2 to hold the ladder. 4 to observe and comment on the work and the most important…1 to go to the Colmado for the beer).

Then dropped Billy and I off at the hotel and Billy walked home. I got some spaghetti and went to the room. It was another good day.

Day 4
Tuesday 26th
My last day in Baharona. I got up and packed then went for my coffee. Billy was there waiting for me then Ruddy showed up. Ruddy said he was looking for me all day yesterday. He lost his cell phone and forgot that he had my business cad with my number on it.

Billy went and got me my ticket for the bus then Ruddy and I went to get something to eat and to see a little more of the town. We got a sandwich then went to the sea. The beach in the city is called Cabo. We went there and he told me how the sugar boats come to take the sugar and molasses. We took some pictures of the old train.
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Then Ruddy took me to the hotel to get my luggage. He took me to the bus and I had to say good-bye to him and Baharona. The trip back to Santo Domingo was uneventful and the only thing bad was the bus didn’t have air conditioning. I opened the window and enjoyed the breeze, wrote in my journal my story and relaxed for the 3 1/2-hour ride back to the city.

It was a good road trip.

Metro Trip to Villa Mella

Well, I finally decided it was time to take the new Dominican subway called the Metro.

I took a walk from Colonial Zone to Ave. Lincoln and from there decided to go and get some chicharones (yes, I like chicharones) in the place that is known for making them, Villa Mella. I thought that maybe Xiomara and Jana would want to go so I gave them a call. It ended up that Jana and I went on this trip together. So I took my daughter (not really mine but she calls me mom).

The Metro was really nice and clean. I was impressed. It was really strange taking public transportation in Dominican Republic where there was no music being played, people were fairly quiet. It was very organized and all went smoothly.

After about 20 minutes we were in Villa Mella, the chicharone capital of DR and looking for a place to get some of that good, greasy and scrumptious pig skin and meat. We walked down a dirt road and stopped in the first colmado. Me for my beloved Presidente beer and Jana got a juice and some gum (she was so excited to find gum for 1 peso). The people sitting outside were very friendly and got us chairs and talked to us a bit. Very nice people. I even had to impress them with my mastery of dancing bachata (seems that people here are always surprised that I can dance bachata half way decent). We asked where was the best place close to get some chicherones and they directed us to a small, nice little restaurant called Tipico Villa Mella. The place is located on Ramon Matias Mella #77 and their phone is 809-568-1131 incase your ever in the area I highly recommend this place.

We placed our order or chicherones (both the hard and soft kind) and some batada (for info on these foods and more) and played with the cat until our food arrived. The food was great and so fresh, for sure different than buying it from the guys in Colonial Zone. The restaurant was playing some old music and the people were all friendly. They even gave us a taste of some foods that I never heard of. Jana has lived here most of her 10 years and she never heard of these either. I even did a search in Google and could not find these foods or what they were made of. But we had some chola and bobote (if anyone knows what the recipe is please let me know). One of these foods is yucca with coconut and the other, who knows. But it was all good. Even better with all the food, a beer and juice the bill was only $250 pesos. What a deal.

We decided to do a walk about but not too far from the Metro entrance so we would not get lost. We fed some pigeons. Talked to some people in different colmados. Then went back to the train as it was just starting to get dark.

We were a little more talkative for the ride back. We were playing with Janas little toy horses and laughing. One guy told us we should be a little more quiet as the police in the train was watching us. Could we be removed from the train for talking and laughing in a normal voice? Well, we weren't removed and got back to the first station. From there we walked back to Colonial Zone. It was a far walk, maybe an hour or so and we were so tired when we got back home. We had some stories to tell Xiomara when we got back all dirty and sweaty with happy content tummies.

Boca Chica All Alone

Continued from the Bus Ride to Boac Chica..yes..there was more.
I get out of the bus in the park in the center of Boca Chica. I had been to the beach before but it was usually at some restaurant along the beach where they had chairs and you could get drinks and food. This didn’t really look familiar. I had never entered the beach from this direction.
So I just walked. And there it was. My friendly Colmado. I knew where I was now. I had been called the Colmado Queen by a few friends in the past (not sure if that’s a good thing but I thought it was funny. I'm always the first to laugh at myself). And I did know that Colmado. I stopped to have me a bien fria (more on Dominican beer) and say hi to the owner. He remembered me from about a year back when I took the 3 sisters there (that’s my mother and my 2 aunts when they visited me. thats an entirely different story I'll tell sometime). We talked a bit while I had my first beer of the day. The first always tastes the best. That Presidente beer just does down so easily. I got one to take with me.I only had to pay for the to-go beer, he wouldn’t let me pay for the first one. Nice guy.
I head down the little alley where all the wonderful smells hit me in the nose like getting slapped in the face with a fish tail (not that that has ever happened but the prevalent smell is fish so I thought it a great analogy). This alley is lined with people cooking the most wonderful fish and other goodies. I’ll get me somma that good stuff later. I wanted to get me some of those clams and oysters on the beach first. I had a plan.
As soon as I left the concrete of the alley and my feet touched the sand there they were. The dreaded people looking for paying butts to occupy their beach chairs. I ignored the first few then saw a place where I thought I’d like to park my bottom. The "incharge-of-the-chairs guy was hounding me so I thought I’d have a little fun and barter with him a bit. This is sometimes a fun thing to do.
First I asked him how much for a beer in the restaurant where the chair was located. It was much more than the Colmado, which is normal. Then I asked how much for the chair. He was all sweet saying for me a special price(I can’t remember the price now). But, oh yes, I truly beleived him he was giving ME a special price. Does my head look like it screws on? I told him I would be buying my own beer from the Colmado but I would still leave him a tip. His price went down lower but not too low. Then he said that if I buy a few beers from him the chair would be free. So I went for that deal. He was a nice human. We ended up talking a bit. Laughing and discussing why I decided to live in DR. I saw a few people I knew passing by but didn’t say anything. I was just observing.
One man I saw is an acquaintance I had spoken to in the streets in Colonial Zone. He’s older, hair colored to cover the grey. (I will not go into more detail because I don't want to give away his identity) but he’s always with a young, pretty, chica. Hmmm…wonder how that happens (LOL!)??? Anyhow, I was watching him making his moves on a group of girls that obviously were working girls.
After he passed on and the 4 girls were standing there talking near me I had to say something. I love to learn where people’s heads are. So I told them that I knew that guy. They laughed and said something about he was always there. They sat down and we were talking. They worked at a massage place there. One of the girls spoke English and she was going to college. Working to get through college. The others were career “masseuse”. They ended up getting some of the seafood that was passing by for us to share. I tried to put some money in for all to share but they wouldn’t let me. We ate some of the mixed seafood stuff with squid. I ended up buying a few beers for us to enjoy wile I asked more questions about their chosen profession. Then they went on their way. It was very interesting.
A few more people passed by that I knew and we said brief hellos. I got me some oysters from a vendor that remembered me from my other visits to the beach. I paid for the normal 6 crustaceans but he had some that were really small and he let me have them at no charge. I was eating and we were talking. He even sent a buddy of his to the Colmado for a beer for me (I paid for that one).
Then it was time to go. My day at the beach was over. I paid the guy for the chair. I paid the "lowest price" he gave me but then I tipped him to make it be the original price he gave me. He was happy. I had fun. He even made a few guys (Sanky Pankys) get away from me before they even started bugging me. So he was worth the little monies I gave him.
I went to the bus. I was tired and content. It wasn’t as full as on the trip to the beach. As we were approaching the city I decided to ask someone how I would get to the Zone. I thought maybe the bus went somewhere close to home then I could just get off. It didn’t. But this man was with his son and we decided to split a cab because he lived near to the Colonial Zone. So the taxi home was only $50 pesos and I had to make the man take that money.
So, all in all, my trip alone to the beach was all good. It did not cost me as much as I had thought. Noone really bothered me at the beach even though I was alone. I met some very nice humans. I had some great food and learned some new things. I also got a little sun and beach fun. All was good. I was one content human.
A little helpful hints for beach going