Road Trip - Salcedo

I finally took my trip to visit my friend in Sosua. I was planning on going on Wednesday but around 5PM I checked the news and saw that there was going to be a huelga (strike). The people were demonstrating against the price hike on fuel and they were going to stop all the trucks and public transportation. So I ran home, thank goodness I was packed, and headed to the bus station to get a bus for Sosua instead of getting into all the problems with the huelga. Thankfully I did that because the next day all the Caribe tour busses were not running.

It was good seeing my buddy again and catching up.

On Friday I decided I was going to take a trip to Salcedo in the Province of Hermanas Mirabal (map). It was a great plan. I found out how to get there from Sosua. I decided to take the local transport instead of the big bus.

My friend took me to get a public car and I was on my way. I told the driver what I wanted and he left me at some little stop to take me to Moca. The car I got into was a small station wagon. People kept piling into the car. I thought I would wait for the next one but the guy said no. He took my carry-on suitcase and some others stuff and tied the stuff onto the top of the car. I was the last to get into the back seat of the car so I was wedged in against the door, one butt cheek almost touching the seat and the other on the door handle. There were 5 people in the front seat; the driver was sharing his seat with another person. There were 5 people in the back seat where I was. Then there were 4 people in the back on the car with the hatch open and their feet dangling out the back. I have ridden in these public cars before but never did I see this many people in one car. It was like the clown cars in the circus where all the clowns keep getting out of a tiny car. The only difference was this was not clowns but it was sort of like a circus.

I was laughing for most of trip, about 1 ½ hours riding half-cheeked on winding mountain roads. There were a few places where the car scraped bottom. I thought we were going to have to get out so the car could get through, but it was all good. I had my arm out the window; there was no room for it inside the car, holding onto the handle of my suitcase. Thank goodness that all inside this squished space had used their deodorant and it seemed to be working. The scenery was wonderful and I wish that I could have stopped to check out some of the places along the road for a bit but riding in these cars, they do not stop.

Finally we got to Moca. I needed a cold beer after that trip so I took a break and went to a Colmado and shared a beer with a few people there. I needed to stretch out my kinked back for a bit before I got on with the next leg of my journey.

The next ride was much more comfortable. It was a large guagua and only a 20-minute ride. I sat in the middle in the front seat. I don’t understand why they didn’t use this bus for the mountain ride and the smaller car for the city trip. But then this is Dominican Republic.

We stopped at the station in Salcedo in the Province of Hermanas Mirabal and I asked about the hotel. They said that there was only 1 hotel in the area so I walked the 2 blocks to the hotel and hoped they had a room. The hotel was La Casona Gran Imperial (809-577-4468 and 809-577-4555) in the central part of this small town. It also seemed to be one of the tallest buildings in this town. They had to different types of rooms so I got the better at a reasonable price. It was a basic room, clean, air-conditioning, hot water and cable tv. The owners were very friendly and helpful. I was content.

The Church in the center of town and some murals on the buildings (click images to enlarge)

I put my stuff in the room and went out to explore the area. Of course I had to go to the first Colmado I came across to see what was going on in the area and ask some questions. The first 2 minutes there I already had a guy fall in love with me…too funny. I wanted to get some food so I went on a quest.

I decided to go as cheap as possible so I went into another place and got them to cut me a piece of pan de auga and some cheese and made myself a sandwich. They were bagging up all this cheese, queso en oja and yellow cheese and selling large amounts to the customers. So I had to ask. It happens that this place is a cheese factory, Punto del Queso “Don Miguel”. They make cheese and yogurt. The owner took me around the back to their house and we sat on the patio, had some coffee, yogurt, cheese and a beer and talked. The family, husband, wife, grandma, grandpa and kids were hanging out and talking for about an hour. They told me to come back Sunday and they would take me into their factory and let me take pictures during the cheese making process.

It was getting dark so I went and got some ice, water and some snacks to take to the room and went and rested. It was a busy and good day. The room was a little noisy as the music from the street wafted up through the hallway into my room but it was bearable. I heard the church bell ring out each hour that passed. I looked outside at the midnight bell and the streets were quiet and void of people. All the motorcycles and people partying in the street had gone home. It was very quiet.

I woke Saturday morning and took my time getting ready for my visit to the museum and whatever other adventures might happen. The roosters were crowing and the streets were getting alive again.

I went to the corner, about a block away, in front of the central church and park to get my morning sustenance. They were making fresh empanadas. I’m not sure if they were empanadas, pastels, or some other fried pocket food, I get them all mixed up. But whatever they were called they were good, hot, crispy and substantial. They rolled out the dough, made a pocket, dumped in an egg and dropped it into the hot oil and fried that bad boy up. Yummm..(Got a note from a blog reader, the name of these yummy things is yanikeke relleno the huevo)

Breakfast being cooked for me (click images to enlarge)

I went back to the hotel to start my trip to the Hermanas Mirabal Museo. The motorcycle guy (motoconcho) that I wanted was not there so I went with another guy. I hopped on the back (not really hop but got on slowly and lifted my feet onto the foot pegs) of the motorbike and was off after I gave the guy my orders to not go fast. I´m not really comfortable on a bike but it is the cheapest and easiest mode of transportation.

The Hermanas Mirabal Museum gardens (click images to enlarge)

The museum and property was so beautiful. The lands and gardens were so well groomed. You could tell that the Mirabal sisters came from a wealthy family. I took some pictures outside but they do not permit pictures taken inside the museum-house. There was the original furniture and decorations in the house. The kitchens had all the original utensils and stoves. The bedrooms of the girls, Patricia, Minerva and María Teresa had their sewing machines, lace handkerchiefs and belongings all inside. It was just like someone still lived there. Each room had one of the favorite dresses of each sister. The most touching parts of the tour for me was seeing the pony tail of María Teresa that DeDe, the only surviving sister, cut off in the morgue. The other was the bloodstained handkerchief that came from the murder scene in a glass case.

I left there with my motor guy and we went to the house where DeDe still lives. There is a beautiful well-maintained park on the opposite side of the road and another smaller park adjacent to it. The smaller of the two has a monument representing the 3 butterflies and the chassis of the car that the girls were riding in then they were brutally murdered by Trujillo’s henchmen. The home of DeDE and family is so beautiful. They have some beautiful orchids in their garden as well as other flowers.

Original home of the Mirabal Family porch and orchids(click images to enlarge)

I was so touched when I was walking around the grounds and a large yellow butterfly swept by and landed on a bright red flower. I felt like the sisters were there greeting me. I tried to get a picture but by the time I turned on my camera the magnificent butterfly had disappeared as fast as it appeared. Did the spirits of the sisters themselves greet me? Interesting thought.

The maid showed me around the property. She showed me the outdoor kitchen where they cook with wood when the family has their large gatherings. She showed me what cacao (coco) looks like and she opened the large fruit and let me taste the insides. You only suck off the white coating that surrounds the seed. It was sweet and very tasty. They raised cacao there and had the drying area but it did not have any fruit drying at this time.

I got back on the bike and the driver, Ramon, showed me the different trees, veggies and plants along with their names as we passed. He stopped to let me see some cacao drying and say hi to some of the people sitting there on their porch watching the cacao dry. It was a good trip.

I was hungry and wanted something substantial so I got some typical Dominican food, la Bandera. I went to a place called Route 55. It was a very unassuming place, not open long. They serve typical Dominican food, pizza, sandwiches and hamburgers on this wonderful special bread, tacos and other foods. The food was excellent and the owner, Elias and his employees were wonderful and very attentive. Elias and I talked a while and he invited me to come for dinner, his treat. Can’t beat that deal.

I wanted to discover some more so I found Aristidad, the original motoconcho guy I wanted, and we were off again. I told him I wanted to see the River so he took me to Rio Cenobi. He was a really nice guy and came highly recommended. We stopped and had a beer then took a walk along a motor-walking trail to see the country people and their homes. He explained about the fruit trees and veggies. There were some beautiful country homes and farms (fincas) along the path. There was wires strung throughout the trees as this is the only was these country people can get a little electric as the power lines do not reach here. These homes are modest and so clean. They do not have running water even though some houses are set up to collect rainwater for their use. Most use latrines and do not have indoor facilities. It is amazing that people still live this way.

Houses in the campo near Salcedo with Aristidad(click images to enlarge)

I did not know we were going to walk into the campo so I was not prepared. Stupid me. I had calf length pants on and no bug spray. I knew better but it was too late. The mayes, or as I call them no seeums had their way with me. They loved the new blood and had their way with me. I was doomed to have the itchy red welts on my legs but it was worth the 2 weeks or these unsightly blotches.

Along the trail a man came riding on his motor with his machete at his side. It was a friend of Aristidad, Felix. He took us to his home. We had to cross the river on rocks they set up (I wonder how they cross when the river is high). Then we walked up a steep slope to Felix families’ home. The 5 or 6 wooden outbuildings and main house were so well taken care of. The yard was clean and the grass trimmed perfectly. There were fruit trees everywhere. We sat in the yard and talked a bit. The family was so nice. They gave me a cup of coffee as we shared some stories. They had to get back to work, as it is a working farm. They do not have and motorized farming equipment. The main tool of choice is usually a machete and other hand held farming tools.

They showed me the pigs, chickens, ducks and their horse. Felix climbed a tree and got me a piece of fruit. While he was in the tree a wasp stung his arm. There was a very long palm trunk laying in the yard. He explained it was drying out to be used to repair the house and buildings. They hand chopped the trunk into board lengths. Then when it was completely dry they finish chopping the sections. Then they use other hand held tools to cut the wood into usable boards. Just like in the pioneer days or maybe like I saw on Little House on the Prairie, except it was palm wood. I was just so amazed with these hard working peoples way of life.

Aristidad and Felix at the Osorio farm(click images to enlarge)

They told me about a mountain near by called Loma el Cerro de la Cruz (I hope I got the name right). People hike up the hill and sign their names so others know they were there. Felix (829-853-7802) and Arisitdad (809-254-0660) can take people there if they want all you have to do is give them a call and see when they can do it. Remember, they do not speak English and to tell them you got their numbers from Janette, The Dominicana Gringa.

I discussed with them about maybe taking a few tourists into their home for a few days to live and work with them. They could enjoy showing people their way of life and make a little money doing so. They agreed but they would have to meet the people first and make sure that the people were nice, did not swear and could accept their lifestyle for a few days.

We left, with my poor red itchy legs leading me along the trail. I was quite hungry by this time and was ready for my free meal at Route 55. So I got cleaned up at the hotel and headed for some fuel for my body. Elisa first gave me a quipe, his mother’s recipe. It was the best quipe I ever had. Then he gave me this giant place of food. Way too much for me, but I dug in. It was beef that he marinated to perfection, platano frito, and a salad. It was all wonderful. I ate until I was stuffed to exploding and enjoyed every bite except for a few platanos that was just too much.

It was getting dark and the partiers were coming out to play. That corner is where everyone goes in the evening. There are about 5 places all playing different loud music. The people crowd into the street, like a small Aveneda Venezuela in Santo Domingo. I went to the small place owned by the hotel and had a seat out front as inside it was so loud this old gal couldn’t deal with it. I was shocked that the prices of a beer in these places were the same as a Colmado. I shared a few beers with some people sitting around. I bought a jumbo and they all took turns buying also. But I was pooped out with the days journeys and the streets were filling up with tons of humans, so I headed back to the hotel for the night and slept very well despite the loud music coming from the street. I was whooped. It was another great day.

Sunday I woke to the maid, Maria, knocking at my door with a cup of coffee. She saw my legs and went and got some Vicks Vapor Rub, the Dominican cure-all, and put it on my legs. They were all swollen and itchy. I had some antihistamines and was so glad I brought them with. They sure came in handy. I got cleaned up and went to get my egg pastele breakfast. I called Aristidad to see if he could take me someplace else but he was outside of the town. It ended up that it was a good thing. I was so tired (maybe it was the antihistamines) and my ankles were swollen from the bites. So I just went back to the hotel and rested.

Around 2 o’clock I went out to see what was going on. There were people everywhere. They were having their pre-Carnival party and parade. It was fun but there were so many people in the streets and I’m not real big with giant crowds as I get older so I went to the hotel bar place and talked to some people I met and shared a few beers. They told me that Salcedo was also known for their murals, famous and unknown Dominican painters paint many of the buildings with beautiful murals. I was waiting for my time to go to the cheese factory.

I went to the factory and the girl working in the Colmado told me they finished up with the cheese early and to come back tomorrow. I had to leave tomorrow so the picture taking and cheese factory plans would have to wait for another time. Oh well, such is life.

I went back and had a few more beers with Fausto and watched the events in the street. I went to the pharmacy and got a little bottle of alcohol for my legs. Then I went and got a hamburger at Route 55 to take to me room and try not to scratch my swollen legs. The hamburger, no lie, was one of the best I ever ate. I don’t know what he did to the meat, whatever marinade he used was perfect.

I took a nap and rested in the hotel for a while but the noise from the celebration in the street was so loud I decided to go out and see what was happening. I got out the door of the hotel and there were people everywhere so I went around the side with less people, bought a few snacks, ice and stuff and went back to the room for the night.

Got up on Monday and got my stuff together to go home. Maria, the maid, came with my coffee and the menthol for my legs and we talked a bit. She invited me to her house for lunch but I needed to get back to reality and work so I had to decline. I got her number for the next time I visit so I can go to her house. She helped me carry my stuff down the stairs and I paid the bill. I called Aristidad to take me to the Caribe Tour bus and that was that. I was on my way back to the Zone for work and everyday life. The best thing of all is I was back to my own bed and had another great adventure. I love this country!!

Barahona Road Trip Tour

I got an email from John that he wanted to visit Barahona after he read my trip report (Barahona trip). I was happy to return and share my discoveries as I had such a good time there the first time I went. The only thing I wasn’t sure about was that he and his daughter Kelsey wanted to rent a car and drive there. I am not really good on the roads here as I never had the guts to drive in this country but this is what they wanted so I went along for the ride as their guide. First I did tell them that I did not know the roads as I always use public transportation but they were up for the adventure and what an adventure it turned out to be for us all.

They were staying their first night in Boca Chica and I took a taxi early Saturday morning to meet up with them. We got along great and they were up for the adventure so we were off in the rental car after a good breakfast.

We did fine driving and enjoying the view along the Malecon. The highway to Barahona was for the most part smooth. We only had a few close calls on the drive there. One when someone stopped in front of us for a conversation in the middle of the street, as is the norm here in DR, and dodging a few large holes in the street.

We stopped at a Colmado for a beer mid trip. John was amazed at how much rice a man had on his plate for his mid day meal. I explained that this was the normal serving here. I was explaining the culture and things along the way. As my usual talking non stop because I love sharing stuff about this country.

We got into Barahona and stopped at a restaurant. I called my friend Ruddi and he came by and said hello to us. Then we drove down the coast to San Rafael. We had no real destination in mind. The only thing that was sure is that we had to get some raw larimar for John to take home with him. Other than that the day was clear.

The road was winding and the scenery was beautiful. As we drove up to the San Rafael beach/ river area the scene was breathtaking. The bay was bright turquoise and the waves were white. We stopped to take it all in. Then we drove down the hill to where the river enters the sea and took a few pictures. We stopped at a roadside place where a lady was selling larimar and they bought their stash or the gem only found on our island. Then we decided we best start looking for a hotel to stay the night.

The Bay and River at San Rafael (click images to enlarge)

On our way back to Barahona we were stopped at one of the many police check points. The guys had their big guns and made us open the trunk for them to have a look see. There was nothing for them to find so we went on our merry way on our quest for a hotel.

We stopped at so many places. All were full. I never left the city on a holiday. Now I know why. Without a reservation on holiday weekends it is almost impossible to find a place to rest the weary head. We stopped at a friend’s hotel and they called around for us to try and find a place vacant. A guy from the hotel took us to one place that had a vacancy but the music was so loud there we would have never slept so we decided to head back toward the capital and maybe find a place in Azua. This is when the real adventure began.

We followed a sigh that said Santo Domingo. The road did not look familiar but we kept going as I thought maybe it was a new highway. There were deep ditches on either side of the road that made me a bit nervous. It was dark by this time and driving at night in the country is not easy here. We almost went off the road once when they sugar train tracks were not marked. We just barely dodged a few car-eating potholes. We got onto some dirt road where people were all staring at us probably wondering what a car with 3 Gringos was doing when the road lead to nowhere. We had to turn around and go past the staring humans again as the road got so bad we knew we were a bit lost. All the time we were laughing and enjoying the situation. But as the night progressed we all got a bit more silent. I could not figure out why we had not come to the town of Azua yet.

Finally we saw someone to ask where the heck we were, after at least a 1-½ hour drive in the dark. He said we were on the wrong road and the only way to get to Santo Domingo we had to go back to Barahona. We stopped to get gas and asked a man there where we could find a hotel. He said his wife’s cousin had a hotel, the only hotel in the entire area. He said it was about 5 minutes away and we could follow him to get there. It was more like 20 minutes away but we followed him. What choice did we have at that hour of the night (it was maybe around 10PM?

We got to the hotel. Hotel Restaurant Deysi Hermanos (809-527-3951/ 3679). This is the only hotel in the entire area. It was in the town of Neiba. Not very far from Lago Enriquillo. We really went the wrong direction. Thank goodness they had rooms! YEA! We had a place to lay our heads and relax a bit. The guy took me to get some water and ice as there wasn’t anyplace within walking distance at night to get this stuff. We gave him a few hundred pesos for his help and retired to our rooms for the night.

View from the Deysi Hermenos Hotel Balcony(click images to enlarge)

Spider webs - Dead baby doll in broken building (click images to enlarge)

In the morning we decided we would just head back to the capital as we didn’t know if we would have more get lose times. Remember, I told them ahead of time that I did not know the roads. They were not angry with me instead they were enjoying the adventure. On the trip back we passed a lot of sugar cane fields and workers. Things we passed the night before but never saw. The sugar cane train went slowly past. We had a few close calls on the road but that’s normal here. We stopped for a horse in the street and waited for him to get off the road to protect him form the crazy drivers speeding past without paying attention to it.

Finally we got back to Barahona to start again for Santo Domingo. We turned around and followed the sign and ended up on the same road to Neiba! It was like we were in the Twilight Zone or in an episode of Children of the Corn (or maybe Children of the Sugar Cane) where you can never leave the town. There was a police checkpoint so we decided to ask for help there. I told the police our story and he had a great solution for us. We were in luck. A sergeant there needed to get to Santo Domingo and instead of him taking the bus he could ride with us and show us the way. What a deal, getting directions and a police escort. So he got in the back seat with Kelsey and we were on our way back.

The policeman was enamored with Kelsey, as were most of the Dominican men we encountered. He kept trying to talk to her but she knew no Spanish. She said his gun was sticking out of his pocket and one time it fell out on the seat. He saw that it came out when she was staring at it and put it back in his pocket.

Other than this the trip back was uneventful. We made one liquid refreshment stop. I would have never found the way back. There are no road signs worth speaking of. There might be one sign then the next turn there is none. So normally, without a sign, one would assume that you are to keep going straight. I learned not to assume anything here. Every fork and Y in the road you need to stop and ask if that is the way or you will end up in no mans land like we did. But the best way to travel in DR is with a PMA (Positive Mental Attitude). Take your time and enjoy the adventure. Laugh at your screw-ups and mark it up as one memorable vacation.

Well, we made it back to Colonial Zone. Then they checked into their hotel and we went on a little walking tour of the Zone. John did no have time to deliver the supplies he brought for the orphanage so he left them with me to deliver later. We walked a few hours in the Colonial Zone but we were all beat from the road trip so we returned to the hotel. We sat on the patio and recalled our adventure over a few cold Presidente beers then said our goodbyes.

John and Kelsey made it to return the car and to the airport with no problems. They made it back to their home with no problems. They also left with some great memories of a unique and incredible adventure in Dominican Republic. I had a great time showing them around and made some new friends in the process.

Bringing in the New Year 2011

Another New Years Eve has come and gone. I was to go to a friend’s home in Sosua for the event but I got a cold (or the gripe as they say here in DR) so I decided to just stay home and suffer alone.

There were a lot of events happening in the Colonial Zone area. I decided to go to the little get together that the neighbors were having in the little parking lot near my office. This way I didn't have to stay out late.

I went home to rest up for a while. I had to force myself to go out. Once I’m home all comfy and cozy I hate to leave. But about 11PM made myself go to the party.

As I was walking out the door of the building where I live this giant rat ran out from the gutter. He (or maybe it was a she, I didn’t bother to check the gender) was a monster, at least 20 pounds with giant snarling teeth and a tail that was a 1/2 mile long. Really, he was a normal sized rat as rats go but when you see one it always looks bigger than it really is. I did a little jump and an ooohhh! when he startled me. He jumped too. He ran into the wall and then turned around and ran right over my foot. I was jumping, not high mind you as my body won’t do that these days but I was jumping quite exuberantly for this ole gal. Doing the old eewwhhh hand gestures as I was walking up the street and giggling to myself. To myself as no one saw it and there was no one to share the yuck with. What a yucky feeling it was too. Then I started to wonder if there was a tradition somewhere that a rat running across the feet on New Years Eve was good luck. I searched the Internet and couldn’t find anything about this so I decided to pretend that it was a good sign even thought I was pretty disgusted with the rat on my foot thought.

So, I got to the Colmado near the parking lot. Everyone was there starting out the night. I had a beer and sat with the neighbors. Midnight came and everyone hugged and kissed and turned our heads up to watch the fireworks. Then we moved on to the parking lot where they set up a stereo and had good music going.

We were all talking and dancing and having a good time. But my cold got the best of me. At about 1:30AM I had to go home and get into my own beddie-bye. I had a good time. I didn’t run into many crowds and got to hang out with my friends. I’m getting too old to go where there are tons of people partying and getting rowdy, at least in my mind I’m too old for that stuff. I got home before everyone got crazy and too drunk, which is just what I like.

Police Watching Out for the President

Yesterday when I left the office I walked to the little Colmado near to Parque Duarte in Colonial Zone for my Presidente beer. As I made the turn from Calle el Conde onto Duarte there was 4 of those scary looking police all in black with their bulletproof vests, skull caps and big guns standing near their motorcycles. I smiled and said hi as I was looking around making sure I wasn’t walking into some big drug bust or some serious problem. There was nothing I could see so I proceeded on to have my bien fria.

When I got near to the park there was 2 large police buses and police everywhere. There were guys in really nice suits with walki talkies (they are the official president protectors). There were more of those scary looking dressed in black police. Lots of National Police (Policia Nacional), Tourist Police, and others I don’t know who they were. I smiled and said hi to the group in front of the Colmado, went inside, got my beer and went back outside to see what was happening like any normal Dominican would do.

I asked the group of men what was happening. Some of them had very nice suits on, others had the normal uniform, some had their florescent vests on and others were in normal street clothes. They said President Leonel Fernández was in the church attending a wedding.

What amazed me is how many police and undercover people were there to watch over the President. There had to be at least 60 different people there. They were everywhere. The suit guy was trying to fix me up with all the police standing around talking. He was telling me to pick the one I wanted. I just laughed at him. We were all talking and all of a sudden they said they had to go. They all went to the area of the church.

I didn’t see the president leave but within minutes people were getting on their motorcycles and boarding the police buses. The suit guys got in black SUV’s, which they call Jepetas here in Dominican Republic. Within minutes they were all gone, leaving behind the normal police watch. I was just amazed at how many police were there to guard the President.

My Christmas Video To You

Merry Christmas - Feliz Navidad! Have a wonderful Christmas
Big hugs and kisses,
Janette
The Dominican Gringa



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Trip To Barahona - A 4 Day Adventure

Day 1
Saturday 23rd
I decided to take a little trip to a place I had never visited before. Got out the map, sent a few emails and made the decision. I chose Baharona in the Southwest part of Dominican Republic.

I made the bus reservation on line with Caribe Tours. This was great as I only had to get to the station a half hour early and was sure to get on the bus I wanted. I took the 6:15AM bus cause I wanted to spend the entire day there. Didn’t want to waste a minute of my trip.

The ride was good. In Azua a man sat next to me and we talked a bit. The land changes after Azua. It is much dryer there, almost desert like and there are even cactus dotting the land. It took a little over 3 hours to get to Baharona.

When I got off the bus all the motoconcho guys were waiting there for their fares. They sit on their motorcycles waiting for someone to take a ride. It usually costs about 20 to 25 pesos in the local area for a ride. I wanted to walk as the hotel I booked was only a few blocks from the station but I wasn’t sure which direction to go. A nice guy said he would take me there for free. Can't beat that price so I hopped (not really hop because I need to get on slowly and lift my leg onto the foot peg, get my butt situated just right then give the driver orders to go slow- it’s a bit of an ordeal really) on the back of the bike with my suitcase on the front and my little bag between us. Then we rode off to the hotel.

Ruddy (the motor guy) and I were talking on the short ride to the Hotel Loro Tuerto. He was a really nice guy so I invited him for a beer. The hotel was really nice. The little restaurant was playing reggae music and was decorated sort of tribal like. Sitting in the restaurant with the owner of the place was the man I was sitting with on the bus, small world. I signed in with my name, cedula, and phone, threw my stuff in the room (which was very comfortable and clean), and Ruddy and I were off to have a beer and to see the town.
(click to enlarge)(click to enlarge)

We started talking. I was telling him what I wanted to see and do while I was there. Ruddy said he could take me to the beaches and rivers for free. Couldn’t beat that deal. I pay for the gas, the food and drinks and have a free guide. We went back to the hotel and I changed my clothes to beach ware. We stopped at a little market and got some rum, 7up and ice and we were off.

Ruddy did follow my orders about driving slow for the most part. I did have to remind him a few times by pinching him in his stomach like I warned him Id do if I got nervous. He stopped to get gas first. The gas station was packed full of motorcycle riders and not one car. Then we rode off down the Malecon out of the city.

I saw some roadside places; most were just people’s homes where they set up a grill to cook with some tables. We chose a place and got some fried fish and cooked bananas called guinea. This area is known for their seafood. The place had some ducks, chickens, dogs and cats running around. Ruddy went to the tree and picked us fresh lemons (called limon here) for the fish and some for the rum. The meal for the both of us was only $150 pesos. Great deal.
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Then we got back on the bike and headed out to the country. We passed some beach areas and slowed down to check out a few. We finally stopped at Playa Quemaito, about a 20 to 30 minute ride. It’s a really long beach with no sand. Most of the beaches in the area are just small, smooth rocks. We swam a bit and collected some interesting rocks, beach glass and even a little larimar. Then we got back on the bike and rode about 10 minutes to the river.
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I like the rivers more than the beaches. It is more refreshing swimming in the river than the sea. The river was crystal clear and the temp was just right. They say it is really cold but to me it was perfect. I found a little flat rock along side the little damn someone made to form the swimming hole. This rock fit my butt perfectly so I just sat there in the cool water, drank my rum and 7up my butt and I were very content. Ruddy was also enjoying his day of play.

We left the river and rode into the little campo of Quimatos. He said his family was from there but it seemed that everyone we ran into was family. He was related to half the people there. We stopped at a little place and danced a bit. Stopped and talked to a shirtless man along the road. He had a large machete on his side and he was covered in blue tinted mud. It was Ruddys brother coming home from working in the larimar mines.

We got back to Barahona just as it was getting dark. We went to the central park area and got some tasty barbecue chicken and yucca with lots of onions. Then we had a beer at a little Colmado and I went back to the hotel to sleep in my room with air conditioning. For me air is a really special treat. Ruddy went home with the promise he would be back in the morning to take me around again because I forgot to bring my camera with me so we had to do it all again.

It was a great day.

Day 2
Sunday 25th
Got up and got ready to head to the beach. This time I remembered my camera. Ruddy came and we had some coffee to start the day off right. Then we went and got our liquid supplies. Rum, 7up and ice. This time it cost about 40 pesos more probably because the Gringa bought instead of the Dominican. Then we went to the Colmado and got pan de auga (bread), some ham and cheese and made sandwiches for the beach. I have to be a bit thrifty. Then we got on the motorbike and headed to Playa Quemaito.

When we got to the beach we picked out our spot and rented a few chairs and a table. Then I had to have a beer before the rum. Beer is always first. I got a little sun on my white legs. While we were sitting and enjoying people kept trying to drive onto the beach with their vehicles. The beach is all little pebbles and very deep. The 4-wheel trucks did fine but the others kept getting stuck. Once car tried and got stuck bad. Ruddy went to help and with 4 men pushing and lifting the car they finally got it out. The family with the car came and sat near us and we were talking. Ruddy told them we were heading to the river and if they wanted to come along they were welcome.
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So we all headed for the rio, them in their car following us on the moto. The road down to the river is a bit rough but they made it most of the way and had to walk the rest. The river was packed this day with all sorts of humans. Some people were cooking in big kettles on fires. Smelt really good whatever it was. There was a group of men pushing a utility van back and forth trying to get it to jump-start. It was funny to watch.
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Then we rode to the barrio, I think it was the town of Quemaito but can’t be sure. It seemed that everyone we passed was some type of family member of Ruddys. Even when we went to the pool hall he was related to people there as well.
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While he was playing I took a little walk to see what I could see. I walked down near to the sea. There was a group of ducks hanging out with their babies along with the chickens. Then I walked up to the street to talk to a lady selling empanadas. She was 94 years old and I asked if I could take her picture. She was smiling and enjoying having her picture taken. I told her I wanted her picture because her face had so much history and it was beautiful. She was smiling the entire time.
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Then we headed to the disco with some of Ruddys friends. I danced a little and flirted with his friends’ 3 year old son. Really the niño was flirting with me. We had a few beers and then headed back toward Barahona. But first Ruddy had to stop and see his brother that worked in the larimar mine.
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He wasn’t there so we had to wait a while. It was getting darker and the place didn’t have any lights.I didn’t want to ride the motor in the dark so finally I had to remind Ruddy. He got his brother to ride me back to the city in his truck and Ruddy led the way on his motor. When we stopped for me to get on the motor it started making noises. Something broke and he had to take it somewhere to leave it to be repaired. He came back and we walked to the central park to get something to eat. Ruddy was a bit worried about his bike so we didn’t hang out long.

We got another motor, 3 of us on the same bike, and he took me back to the hotel. Ruddy went to see what he could do to get the bike running. I was beat and got a sandwich to take to the room to eat. It was another good day for me.

Day 3
Monday 25th
My son Billy Jay died 7 years ago today. This is one of the reasons I took the trip. I like to get away and near water on this day.

Ruddy didn’t show up at the hotel and I couldn’t get in touch with him on his phone so I decided to take a walk and check out the area and head down to the sea side to relax. I went and got some money to pay the hotel bill then walked toward the sea.

In front of a park on the Malecon I met a tour guide, Billy. I told him I didn’t want a guide and what my business was and he decided to hang out with me for a while. We walked around and I checked out a few hotels along the way and got their info.(click to enlarge)

Then we got to the sea. There weren’t many people there which is what I wanted. It was really quiet. Billy and I walked to the Larimar Hotel. There were no guests there and the watchmen and manager were sitting on the beach. We sat down and talked a while. They gave me some fish and rice to eat for free. Then this fog started rolling in. At first I thought it was the salt air fogging my glasses. It was a strange fog that came from nowhere in the middle of the afternoon. It lasted about a half hour then was gone. It was sort of eerie.

I told Billy I wanted to go to the hotel and rest a bit but we could have a beer first. Well, we started drinking, talking, laughing, meeting other people and I never made it to rest in the hotel. A couple men invited Billy and I to go to another place so we got in their car and went to the Malecon. We danced a bit and talked a lot. I even showed them my stupid magic tricks and told them my joke I made up (How many Dominicans does it take to change a light bulb? 8. 1 to do the work. 2 to hold the ladder. 4 to observe and comment on the work and the most important…1 to go to the Colmado for the beer).

Then dropped Billy and I off at the hotel and Billy walked home. I got some spaghetti and went to the room. It was another good day.

Day 4
Tuesday 26th
My last day in Baharona. I got up and packed then went for my coffee. Billy was there waiting for me then Ruddy showed up. Ruddy said he was looking for me all day yesterday. He lost his cell phone and forgot that he had my business cad with my number on it.

Billy went and got me my ticket for the bus then Ruddy and I went to get something to eat and to see a little more of the town. We got a sandwich then went to the sea. The beach in the city is called Cabo. We went there and he told me how the sugar boats come to take the sugar and molasses. We took some pictures of the old train.
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Then Ruddy took me to the hotel to get my luggage. He took me to the bus and I had to say good-bye to him and Baharona. The trip back to Santo Domingo was uneventful and the only thing bad was the bus didn’t have air conditioning. I opened the window and enjoyed the breeze, wrote in my journal my story and relaxed for the 3 1/2-hour ride back to the city.

It was a good road trip.

Through The Shrubbery Spy Team - Episode 1

Through The Shrubbery Spy Team
Episode 1: Pool Peepers

This spy team known as “Through the Shrubbery” is the work of a dedicated group of humans who came together to make sure they, their loved ones and their clients are safe in their chosen environments. Mainly this involves no action on the team members (the team members are referred to as Joes) parts other than having a keen sense of the obvious and observation skills. They are not for hire, only picking and choosing their caper when they feel the need. The main part of the team consists of Joe-ld, Joe-ie and Joe-et. Please note the names have been changes to protect the identities of this fine group of middle-aged humans. Now that the introductions are over we will proceed with the caper.

Quite late at night a group of human males and females returned from an evening of imbibing. They were laughing and carrying on while on the balcony as many do while visiting this Caribbean country and renting a house in a decent neighborhood. The Shrubbery Team jumped into action with no thought for their own safety. Ready, no matter the hour, to make sure no shenanigans were going on that was not good for the neighborhood.

Finding a way through the bushes to get a closer look. They realized they were vulnerable as both of the team was wearing bright white clothing. A quick change had to be made so they retired to headquarters, lickity split, to get into uniform and outten the lights. Within minutes they were back and ready to romp. Joe-et with her camouflage long dress and bare feet and Joe-ld in black and comfy clonks. Joe-ie stayed back to protect headquarters.

Back through the bushes they went talking in low voices, making their plan of action as they went along.

Getting closer to the perps the experienced spy team got to their knees. Middle aged knee and back pain forgotten in the heat of the pursuit. Crawling along they had to deal with one of the serious problems the spy team has. They have an issue with uncontrollable laughing and giggling. When they get in the thick of a caper this always happens to them. Maybe this is a tension relief thing,they could only guess. They never understood this need to laugh while in pursuit. They are able to get their giggling under control for a few moments but it keeps returning at the most inconvenient times.

Finally they got to the shrubbery blocking them from the view of the neighborhood intruders. They found a peaky hole and proceeded to peek. The perps were tricky indeed. While the team was crawling, making their plans, the perps left pool, two by two, and returned to their balcony disappearing into the abyss of their rental chalet. The Shrubbery Team tried drawing the perps out with their signature cry. Blabah-bla-bglab-blagha-blaga. One must hear this distinct cry to appreciate the fierceness and hair-raising fear it can bring to a non-suspecting stander-byer (this is a special spy team word - one who stands by) when coming from an innocent shrubbery. This is how the spy team got their name, this frightening noise, sometimes presented in stereo, emanating through the shrubbery.

The Joes tried pushing their faces through the shrubbery for a better look at the envents unfolding in the neighboring property all the while making their Blabah-bla-bglab-blagha-blaga sounds. Nothing. The next step was for Joe-ld to hold aside the shrubbery so Joe-et could make a mad dash. Running with all the agility in the body, remember these spies are finely tuned human machines. The plan was to run across the balcony at lightening speed while making the bone chilling blabah noise to rouse the perps from their inner sanctum. The shrubbery holder spy knows that if the one runner is seen all must work together to make sure the others are safe. Be it lifting one load to its feet or dragging one by the arm to safety. The back up plan, if all else fails, RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY!

The spy team carefully moved the shrubbery back into place to erase any traces of their presence. Their mission accomplished. With the perps safely behind their closed doors; the team proceeded through the bushes back to headquarters. Not worrying about their aching knees, muddy feet and scratched legs. They had accomplished another successful mission.

Returning to the sanctity of the patio, to a nice cold beer, they reflected on their caper. The good and bad of it so that when the next caper arises they will be ready to face whatever happens without fear and hopefully without giggling uncontrollably throughout their entire mission. Always ready to serve and protect their territory and their loved ones no matter the cost.

The Thorough the Shrubbery Team. They are never where you expect them to be. If you are in Dominican Republic and doing something not quite right and not quite wrong and you hear soft giggling and a frightening, heart stopping Blabah-bla-bglab-blagha-blaga coming from the darkness of an innocent looking shrubbery. This could be the Joes, Joe-ld, Joe-ie, Joe-et and the rest of this elite team watching you!

Mysterious Find in the Washer

I decided to do a little laundry today since we had water, electric and the sun was out for a change. I dragged the washer to the patio and commenced washing.

Remember this is not an automatic machine. It washes in one side and when that's done you have to move the clothes to the other side which is the spinner to extract the water (there is another blog story called "My Dominican Wash Machine Experience" if your interested).

I connected the hose and did the first load. I put the clothes in the spinner and the power went out. I had to hand squeeze all the clothes, a bit of a workout for these old hands. I have noticed that the water doesn't drain out of the spinner like it should for a really long time so since I couldn't wash anymore I decided to investigate.

I moved the spinner thingy to the side and peeked in. There was something navy blue way down inside. I tried to reach in and get it but couldn't so I got my trusty tongs and dived in. Out came this navy blue silky blob. Sort of nasty because who knows how long its been stuck in there. I looked at it, holding it by the tongs as I really didn't want to touch it.

It ended up that it was a pair on mens underpants. Fill cover briefs, silky navy blue. Now go figure. I don't wear mens undies. I never washed mens undies in my machine. I hope I don't know any man that would wear those type of poopoo undies (poopoo undies, that's a quote from the movie Young Frankenstein which is one of my favs).

Now, how did those interesting undies get into my machine, wedged way down into the drain in the water extractor? If only the machine could talk. It will forever remain a mystery.

Addendum - I was just reminded that I did wash a male friends clothes once but he defiantly did not wear silk undies, especially as big as those ones were.

Will the mysterious silk, poopoo undie, wash machine using man please step forward....